A Detailed Guide for Umling La Pass

You’ve probably heard of Khardung La or maybe even Chang La, but Umling La, the Highest Motorable Pass in the World at 19,024 feet, is in a league of its own. That’s higher than Everest Base Camp. Higher than Mount Elbrus in Russia. Higher than any civilian airstrip on Earth. The oxygen level drops to nearly 50 percent. So even walking for a few minutes at the pass feels like sprinting up ten floors without a break.

In 2017, the Border Roads Organisation started building this road under Project Himank. It was built for strategic reasons, not for tourism. The purpose was to connect remote villages like Demchok and Chisumle to mainland India. But what was built as a military grade access road is now a playground for hardcore travellers who want to test their limits.

What Makes Umling La So Difficult

Most people think the toughest part is the high altitude. That’s not entirely true. The altitude is just one layer of the challenge. What really tests you is the combination of low oxygen, rapid weather changes, high UV exposure, loose gravel trails, frozen stream crossings and almost zero vehicle support.

There is no fuel station for over 250 km. There is no food outlet after Hanle. There is no hospital if your oxygen levels crash. Your phone network will go out before you reach the final ascent. And in case of AMS, your only option is to descend fast and pray your body doesn’t shut down before you find help.

So ask yourself. Are you prepared to break down here? Can you change a flat tyre without any signal or sunlight? If you are riding solo, do you have a plan if your vehicle refuses to start after sitting cold for a few hours?

This route doesn’t forgive overconfidence. Even army convoys slow down while passing through certain hairpin stretches near the top.

How to Get the Inner Line Permit?

As of now you need Inner Line Permit to travel beyond Hanle and reach Umling La. It’s not available through Leh DC online portal. You have to physically visit the Deputy Commissioner’s office in Leh. The route towards Umling La passes close to sensitive army posts and near the LAC with China. So, the army reviews the permit status regularly.

Since early 2024, authorities have restricted commercial groups from bringing tourists without proper medical clearance. As per BRO and LAHDC notices, private vehicles with verified documents and locals as guides are being preferred. From April 2025, there is a discussion of issuing altitude-safety fitness slips at Hanle for all non-local travellers who want to proceed.

So if you are planning for summer, you may need to arrive in Leh two days earlier just to get paperwork done. Keep your Aadhar card, vehicle papers and route plan printed in physical format. Don’t rely on WhatsApp or PDFs on your phone.

What is the Best Route to Reach Umling La

Route 1: Hanle via Punguk - Ukdungle - Nurbu La - Chisumle Bridge - Umling La (88 km)

This is one of the more stable routes in terms of terrain. The road is wider most of the time and the inclination is gradual. I would drive during mid-morning when there’s no snow and the temperature is moderate. Ukdungle has a military presence, so you feel a bit secure, although you won’t find fuel or food here. If you’re planning a day return, this route gives you a bit more time to manage your pace.

Route 2: Hanle to Umling La via Bogge/Zursur - Nurbu La Top - Chisumle Bridge - Umling La (72 km)

This route is one of the shortest and most common. The road is relatively wider most of the time and the inclination is gradual. It’s ideal if you drive during mid-morning when there’s no snow and the temperature is moderate. Bogge and Zursur have barely any civilian presence and no stopover facilities. The weather becomes unpredictable in the upper stretches after Zursur. But the benefit here is fewer water crossings and less dust compared to some of the other options.

Route 3: Hanle - Bogge - Beyond Nurbu La Top - Chisumle Bridge - Umling La (62 km)

It’s the shortest among all six. You might think that’s the best, but wait. Terrain is raw and exposed. If there’s snow or even light rain, this route becomes risky. There are some deep gravel stretches just before Chisumle Bridge. No road signs, no fuel, no network on this route. If you’re comfortable off-roading and have a backup vehicle or convoy, only then should you attempt this.

Route 4: Hanle - Photi La - Photile - Chisumle - Chisumle Bridge - Umling La (75 km)

If you want a more scenic and less isolated drive, this might be the one for you. Photi La Pass has some amazing high altitude desert terrain. But it’s prone to landslides and loose rocks, especially after Photile. Not a route you want to take without a recent weather update. Make sure your vehicle’s tyres and suspension are in good condition before attempting this stretch.

Route 5: Loma Bridge - Dungti - Fukche - Koyul - Lekeng Yok - Chisumle - Chisumle Bridge - Umling La (116 km)

This route is longer and has more military checkpoints. That can be a double edged sword. On one hand, you have more help available if something goes wrong. On the other hand, it slows you down as document checks are strict and time consuming. Koyul and Lekeng Yok are small villages but don’t expect any shops or mechanics here. The good part is the roads are wider than the Hanle sector and you’ll have fewer hairpin bends.

Route 6: Loma Bridge - Dungti - Fukche - Koyul - Demchok - Umling La (129 km)

This is the longest and most sensitive route. Demchok is very close to the Indo-China border and is heavily monitored by the Indian Army. You need special permissions and sometimes even that is not enough depending on the situation. The weather here is harsh and dry. This route is best suited for travellers who are on an expedition with official backing or those who already have a backup logistics setup.

Find Here: Popular Leh Ladakh Bike Trip Packages and ride to the highest motorable road

When is the Right Time to Visit Umling La

You can not just pack your bag and travel anytime here. It is important to time your trip according to the weather conditions. The road is snow-covered for six to seven months a year. That means the best time to visit is really from mid-June to early October. Even within that window, you can still expect short weather shifts that might close the route for a day or two. And in July afternoons, the wind speed at the pass can reach over 80 km/h which is strong enough to make you think twice about when to visit.

If you're driving up from Delhi or Chandigarh, plan for 10 to 12 days in total. That includes rest days in Leh and Hanle to help your body acclimatise. Don't even think about trying to visit Umling La in a single day from Leh. Not only is it unsafe, but army officials will strongly advise against it.

Here is a rough outline of an ideal itinerary:

 Day 1-3: Arrive in Leh, and take a couple of days to get used to the altitude.

 Day 4: Head to Nyoma or Loma from Leh.

 Day 5: Reach Hanle, and spend the night there.

 Day 6: Start early, around 4 or 5 AM. Ride to Umling La in the morning, and return to Hanle by the evening.

 Day 7: Begin your return journey.

One thing to keep in mind: Don't attempt the ride in the afternoon. UV levels spike and oxygen levels dip after noon. That's when the conditions become really challenging. So start early and make the most of the morning.

How to Prepare for High Altitude Sickness?

Everyone talks about AMS but most people don’t know what it really feels like. It’s not just a headache or tiredness. At 19,000 feet, AMS can begin with a light throb in your temples, then come nausea, brain fog, shortness of breath and dizziness. If you keep climbing without responding to these signs, you may collapse or lose consciousness.

Carry portable oxygen cans but do not depend on them blindly. They are a temporary fix. What you really need is a proper pace, water intake, and no alcohol or tobacco use during the trip.

If you feel unwell near the pass, descend immediately. The army base in Hanle sometimes provides support but it is not their duty to rescue civilians unless it’s an emergency. They also don’t allow overnight halts near Umling La. Always descend before 2 PM, even if you feel fine.

Where to Stay While Heading to Umling La?

You won’t find hotels with hot showers or heated rooms after Nyoma. That’s a fact. The best place to stop before Umling La is Hanle village. It has homestays run by locals. These are basic but warm. Mud walls, shared bathrooms and no running water at night. If you are expecting a place with an intercom or Wi-Fi, you will be disappointed.

Electricity is limited here. Most homes use solar or small generators. Some homestays give you hot water in buckets in the morning. Carry your own toiletries. Forget about room service. If you need something, ask politely and in advance. These are not commercial hotels. They are family homes opened for guests.

You can also try to book the guest houses near the Indian Astronomical Observatory in Hanle. A better plan is to reach Hanle by afternoon, meet a few locals and ask them about stay options. Most will help you find a place quickly.

Do not stay anywhere near the pass. Camping at that altitude without backup is risky and also not allowed by the army.

Which Vehicle is Suitable for Umling La Trip?

You need a vehicle that can take a beating and keep moving. Think of a high ground clearance SUV or a well maintained motorcycle above 300cc. Royal Enfield Himalayan and KTM Adventure bikes do well here.

But the real deal is not just the brand or model. It’s about how well it’s maintained. Before your trip, check the clutch plates, engine oil, brake pads, tyre grip and battery health. Carry a spare tyre and a basic tool kit. If you are riding, pack an extra clutch wire and air filter.

Do you know how to repair a puncture without help? If not, learn before the trip. One flat tyre in the middle of nowhere can cost you 6 hours or even a whole day. If you think this is tough, then just reach out to us, we will schedule a Ladakh Motorbike Tour plan for you that comes with experienced mechanics. They will be with you throughout your trip.

Also, fuel up in Leh. The next fuel stations are in Karu or Tangtse and after that, none till you return from Umling La. Carry at least 10-15 litres of extra fuel in proper metal jerry cans. Avoid plastic bottles. They can swell or leak due to air pressure.

Places to Visit Near Umling La Pass

Hanle Monastery

Hanle Monastery is one of Ladakh's oldest and most serene gompas. Built in the 17th century, it's nestled in the Hanle valley, where the Drukpa lineage has called home for centuries. That's where you'll discover ancient murals, golden statues-and a rooftop view that reveals the stark beauty of this barren landscape in all its layers. The silence here is almost palpable and the kind that helps you slow down. The monks are friendly and warm, and they love sharing stories with visitors who approach with respect.

Indian Astronomical Observatory

That's where the real magic begins. The nearby observatory is one of the world's highest optical observatories. The Indian Institute of Astrophysics operates it, and it's a hub for space research. You can't go inside the main dome, but you can walk the outer periphery. Standing at a scientific marvel under one of India's clearest skies is an experience you won't soon forget. On moonless nights, the Milky Way is visible to the naked eye-and it's a sight that'll leave you breathless.

Chisumle Village

Chisumle is a tiny village on the Umling La route. It flies under the tourist radar, but it offers a raw, unvarnished look at high-altitude life. You'll see traditional Ladakhi homes, yaks grazing in the distance-and the stone structures that have withstood the constant winds. Take your time walking through the area, and talk to the locals. That's where you'll see the human side of survival in some of the world's most extreme geography.

Photi La Pass

Photi La is another high-altitude pass near Umling La. It's less famous, but it offers a similar terrain with fewer risks. The roads are narrow, but they're drivable. From the top, you get a wide-angle view of valleys and rocky slopes that look almost like the moon. If Umling La feels too extreme, Photi La gives you a similar thrill-with a little more breathing room.

Conclusion

Umling La Pass is the ultimate test for adventure enthusiasts, offering awe-inspiring views and extreme challenges at 19,024 feet. Careful planning, acclimatization, and a reliable vehicle are essential for a safe journey. Whether you're riding solo or joining a Motorbike Tour, this route promises an unforgettable experience for those ready to conquer the world's highest motorable pass.